For the most part resin is softer and more pliable/or brittle depending the resin and mix than ABS.
I'm not sure that I'd use resin tracks on a functioning R/C unit
CHeers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Mon Jul 06, 2015 6:46 am
]]>
regards
Statistics: Posted by db133 — Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:40 pm
]]>
and at least one model (Leopard) with Metal tracks and rubber inserts (like the real one)
I can't think of any other material from which tracks could be made.
For a Tiger get metal tracks - I only use plastics with my Panzer iii s and ivs and then only because of budget
Cheers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Fri Jun 26, 2015 7:41 am
]]>
Statistics: Posted by db133 — Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:47 am
]]>
Recoiling barrel if doing IR - airsoft for airsoft.
Visaton FRS speaker
Asp (why not they are pretty cheap for me
)or El Mod
Turnigy 9XR Pro with tankER9XPro and 3 x 3 position switch mod
2 cell lipo as big as will fit into the hull with speaker
These gearboxes
http://www.rctank.de/51-PRO-steel-gearb ... hort-axles
Why not just start with your list in the fist place and cancel the HL tank ?
As I am in the stupid question dept ! Tank tracks appear to be, metal or plastic are there any other's ?
Regards
Statistics: Posted by db133 — Sun Jun 21, 2015 1:42 am
]]>
]]>
Which one ?
Statistics: Posted by db133 — Fri Jun 19, 2015 5:24 am
]]>
Statistics: Posted by mikeb — Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:54 pm
]]>
It would be hard to give specifics as each tank and more importantly tankers budget/skills are widely different. Expectations too....
If you have a high degree of R/C knowledge and some engineering skills then you might consider brushless motors for any slight improvement they may offer. But you will probably have to find/make your self some custom gear boxes and look for a specialised control board.
Personally because of the wide rage of products already available for brushed motor setups it is easier for now to stick with them. But again that's just my opinion.
Regardless, brushed or brushless, M1 or Tiger you need to have a decent programmable Radio for your tank. That is why here at RCTA you will see so much devoted to the 9X series and Taranis. You simply need all the available switches and to be able to program custom limits for each of your tanks. If you think you Tiger is going too fast it is a simple matter of adjusting down the throttle on your radio. You can do this no matter what control board you have.
Budget pretty much control what type of control board you go for and that will in turn influence your further choices.
Personal preference - do you want good sound or prefer to have smoke, IR or airsoft. In my case since I have many a Panzer III / IV I do away with the smoke altogether in preference of a decent speaker and or camera installation.
Level of knowledge/skill: Are you familiar with servos and do you wish to use them instead - What about gyros and 360 degree turret operation. All these factors come into play with choice of control board/radio & other extra items.
Personal Expectations: For me I prefer to keep it simple as the more things you want to change and the more complex the more likelihood of something not working. I prefer to be in "CONTROL" of my tank rather than have boards that "control the tank" for me. I prefer sound over smoke. I prefer to minimise the amount of metal on the tank to keep the weight at a reasonable level.
For a Tiger if I was doing up a Heng Long tank:
Get the Asiatam lower hull and metal tracks
Recoiling barrel if doing IR - airsoft for airsoft.
Visaton FRS speaker
Asp (why not they are pretty cheap for me
)or El Mod
Turnigy 9XR Pro with tankER9XPro and 3 x 3 position switch mod
2 cell lipo as big as will fit into the hull with speaker
These gearboxes
http://www.rctank.de/51-PRO-steel-gearb ... hort-axles
Cheers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:40 am
]]>
What amperage/voltage can I go up to? I don't want the tank to go like a rocket like some on the video's I have seen on YouTube; no way does a Tiger go like an M1 Abrams; anyhow if you could advise I don't want to have a load of molten plastic. regards Mike
Statistics: Posted by mikeb — Mon Jun 15, 2015 6:45 am
]]>
2 cell LiPos for all WWII era tanks
3 cell LiPos for Post war tanks
cheers
kg
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun May 31, 2015 8:41 am
]]>
]]>
pla2.JPG
1.front lights
2.Notek
3.column light
4.back light
5.light changing switch
6.light switch
7.8 pin connector
How does it work?
When you switch on main switch (secondary switch for lights is also turned on on pict. No. 6) back column ligh turns on as well as back light and front lights (Notek is turned off).
If you reverse changing switch (on pict. No. 5), Notek lights up and back light with front lights turns off.
Now there this is a bit wrong since on real thing column light would be shut off and covered with small plate, while at same time revealing tvo horisontal lights wich are eqvivalent of right back light. Since I haven´t done this switchplate, on mine assembly column light is always turned on.
This was all done with 360° turret rotation assembly, that is why there are some ˝free˝ cables on 8 pin connector.
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Fri May 20, 2011 9:22 pm
]]>
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Wed May 18, 2011 11:30 pm
]]>
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Wed May 18, 2011 9:12 pm
]]>